Why Choose a Genuine LCD Assembly

• Perfect fit & finish — correct hinge alignment and tight tolerances.
• True Retina quality — color accuracy, brightness, and uniformity as designed.
• Reliability — OEM assemblies pass stricter quality control.

Compatibility & Part Notes

This guide applies to MacBook Pro Retina 13" A1502 (Late 2013, Mid-2014, Early-2015). Check the model identifier on the bottom case or via About This Mac. Using a complete top-lid assembly simplifies the repair versus swapping only the LCD panel.

Tools & Parts

• Genuine LCD Screen Complete Assembly for MacBook Pro 13" A1502
• Pentalobe P5 screwdriver (bottom case)
• Torx T5 screwdriver (hinges)
• Plastic spudger & tweezers
• Anti-static mat or wrist strap (recommended)

Step-by-Step Replacement

1. Shut down & unplug. Power off completely and disconnect the charger.
2. Remove bottom case. Unscrew the 10 P5 screws; lift the cover from the hinge side.
3. Disconnect the battery. Always isolate power before working on cables.
4. Free the display cables. Carefully disconnect the display data cable and Wi-Fi antenna leads.
5. Remove hinges. Support the lid, then remove T5 hinge screws; lift the old assembly away.
6. Install new assembly. Seat the new lid, loosely fit hinge screws, align, then tighten evenly.
7. Reconnect cables. Reattach display data and antenna cables; ensure snug, straight seating.
8. Reconnect battery & close. Refit the bottom case and tighten the P5 screws.
9. Test. Boot the Mac, check brightness, colors, camera, Wi-Fi, and lid sensor.

Pro Tips

• Loosen both hinges first; tighten gradually to maintain perfect alignment.
• Don’t pinch antenna cables under the hinge clutch cover.
• If colors look off after install, reset NVRAM/PRAM and SMC.

FAQ

Q: Can I replace just the LCD glass?
A: It’s possible but risky and time-consuming. A complete assembly is faster and safer.

Q: Will a non-OEM panel work?
A: Some do, but you may see color/brightness inconsistencies or poor fit. OEM is recommended.